Finding Community and Getting to Work

Getting Connected to the Barang Community

In Cambodia, foreigners are known as Kon Barang or Barang. The term Kon Barang translates to “French person” in Khmer. It dates back to French colonial rule that began in 1863 and lasted for 90 years (source: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-pacific-13006828.amp). Now, the word simply denotes foreigners of any kind. In rural areas, or small cities like Battambang, kids often yell out “Barang” when they see a foreign-looking individual. When I hear them, I always wave, smile, and say “hello” or “sua s’dai” (a Khmer casual greeting). 

Writing this, I think about the oppression Barangs have put the Khmer people through, from 19th-20th century French colonization to US bombings during the Vietnam war to current acts of sexual violence committed by perverse tourists. Yet still, the Cambodian people I’ve met have welcomed me with open arms, excited to share their culture with someone who is so different. One component of this openness may be beauty standards. Having white skin, blonde or light brown hair, and a long, slender nose is revered, yet largely unattainable (aside from toxic skin whitening creams). These standards are yet another product of colonialism as well as a product of classism, since having lighter skin shows that you haven’t been working in the fields all day. Negotiating these identities as an ethnic minority and a problematic beauty standard is a unique experience. I hope to be an example of a goofy yet earnest Barang who is looking for legitimate connection and shared experience.

I didn’t realize how much I’d rely on the Barang community here in Battambang. On my second day here, I met up with Sam, a Peace Corps volunteer who had lived in Battambang for the past two years. He took me under his wing, showed me all the best cafes, restaurants, and bars in Battambang, and introduced me to other Peace Corps volunteers, English teachers, and nonprofit workers in the community. I became fast friends with Chloe, Tyra Charley, and Omar, English teachers from America, South Africa, and Tunisia respectively. We go to the various weekly Barang events, swim at the many hotel pools, and take trips around Cambodia together. I am taking advantage of all the opportunities I get to explore this beautiful country with my new friends.

Driving home from Siem Reap (left to right: Zion, Tyra Charley, Chloe, Omar, and Sam)

Working with CVF

My work with the Cambodian Village Fund English Language Program so far has been incredible. The teachers have welcomed me into their classrooms and eagerly jumped into our research together. I spent my first few weeks observing classes to better understand CVF’s teaching methods. 

Then, Sreynoch, my primary research assistant, and I took a trip to Siem Reap together to research another English Language Program, Opening Doors Cambodia (ODC). After the long drive to SR, we worked hard to learn all we could about their innovative approach to English language instruction through observations and interviews. After our first long day, we sat down for a delicious Khmer pizza dinner, a fun cultural exchange for both of us. 

The second day, Sreynoch and I got up early to observe classes and interview ODC staff once again. During our one-hour lunch break, we went to Angkor Wat. I was surprised that it costs around $50 for Barangs to set foot inside Angkor Wat, because you can only purchase a bundle ticket that permits you to enter all the temples in the massive complex. After bartering with the guards in Khmer-glish, they allowed Sreynoch and me to walk along the park across the mote from the Wat. While this was a bit disappointing, it was still incredible to see the Wat from afar. I can’t wait to return with my family and finally get to explore it once again.

Zion and Sreynoch at Angkor Wat

Sreynoch and I were deeply inspired by the ODC approach and excited to share it with our colleagues at CVF. Through meetings, we are considering ways to include these methods in our program. Since the start of October, I have started co-teaching and substitute teaching at CVF, using a mixture of CVF and ODC methods in my teaching. It has been powerful to gain experience in this way, and I am continuously learning more and more about the program through my teaching.

Zion teaching at the CVF English Language Program 

Remembering Seyha’s Father

The father of Seyha, one of our English teachers, passed away on September 24th. I was fortunate enough to meet him in the hospital a few days prior. I wanted to donate my blood to help him, but the timing wasn’t right. When I found out about his passing, I felt so guilty and sad that I couldn’t help to save his life. I knew I wanted to be there for Seyha in any way I could. On the day of his death, I offered to teach Seyha’s classes for her, my American, “the show must go on” attitude in full swing. A couple hours before class, Sreynoch messaged me about Seyha’s father’s funeral, which would begin in less than one hour. It hadn’t even occurred to me that the funeral would happen so soon after his passing. Sreynoch asked if we could cancel class, and I agreed. I rushed over to the funeral, ensuring I was wearing the proper attire and equipped with a customary monetary donation for the family. 

The funeral was beautiful and so different from American funerals I’ve been to. The body was laid in a decorated casket, raised up on a pagoda-like structure. There were neon lights and colorful fabrics draped around the structure. I arrived with Sreynoch and Vichet, two CVF English teachers, and we joined everyone gathered around the structure. Buddhist monks were chanting next to the body. Then, Seyha’s family members climbed onto the pagoda with the monks and the casket. It was the only time I heard crying at the funeral, crashing around me in loud, sobbing waves.

Vichet, Zion, Vanna, and Samey at the funeral
Funeral tents

After the service, the guests gathered under large, colorful tents to share a meal together. The CVF scholarship students and English teachers sat together and talked. I found it challenging to understand the sociocultural norms, but I tried my best to blend in. I must have appeared a bit gloomy and disinterested, because at one point Sreynoch asked me if I was feeling lonely. At that moment I realized that engaging in normal, humorous conversation was the expectation. I was a bit perplexed at this desire to smile and laugh through this painful moment, until Seyha brought her son out. I interacted with him, giggling and smiling. I felt nothing but joy and gratitude to be included in the funeral. Though it’s deviating, it was a way to build community with the English teachers and demonstrate my desire to support them in any way I can.

Seyha and Zion embrace
Seyha’s 2-year old son, LeBelle, and Zion interact

Art Night

After the funeral, I felt emotionally exhausted. All I wanted was to be at home with my dorm sisters. After talking for a bit, we turned to the subject of art. My Barang friends and I had just bought some art supplies, and I was keeping them in my dorm room. Smiling, I left the living room and returned with colored pencils, watercolors, and acrylic paints. I passed out printer paper to all the girls and invited everyone to make art together. Everyone created such beautiful yet stylistically different art. It was such a wonderful way to connect across cultural differences.

I wanted to create a butterfly, because I have been mesmerized by all the beautiful butterflies in Cambodia. During my recent trip to Samlot, a butterfly had actually landed on my hand. It was such a magical experience, and I wanted to commemorate it with an art piece.

Zion and butterfly

I decided to draw/paint the beautiful black and yellow butterfly that I wrote about in my previous blog. It was such a relaxing and rejuvenating process. Here is the finished piece.

Zion’s butterfly art

Working with Phare

I have been so fortunate to work with Phare Ponleu Selpak, a non-profit Cambodian art association, as an affiliated organization. They are offering me Apsara dance and Khmer drum lessons as well as training opportunities for CVF teachers. In exchange, I am doing consulting and teacher training for their Kindergarten program in order to help them integrate arts into the program. I have been observing the current teaching methods at the Kindergarten to design my teacher training workshops. I will lead the workshops in October, using learnings from Contemporary Art in Early Childhood, a course taught by Louisa Penfold at the Harvard Graduate School of Education. 

My Apsara and drum lessons have been incredible so far. Since I studied music in my undergrad, I am picking up drumming much quicker than dancing. Apsara requires a level of flexibility I do not yet possess, but I am attempting the dances to the best of my ability and modifying as necessary. It is fascinating to see how each dance corresponds to text. For example, I am learning a dance about a beautiful flower, beautiful as a beautiful girl. Everyone talks about the flower, and bees come to pollinate the flower. Each of these phrases has a corresponding movement, so the dance acts as a story-telling device. I am considering ways to integrate storytelling and Apsara dance into the Phare Kindergarten program and the CVF English Language Program. The rhythms I am learning on the drum correspond to Apsara dance songs, so it feels as though all my learnings are interlinked. I greatly appreciate this exchange opportunity with Phare, and how I am able to learn more about Khmer culture through the performing arts.

Hang Seyla (teacher) and Zion in Apsara dance class
Zion and Oum Eng (teacher) in Khmer music class