My loving boyfriend Ben dropped me off at the airport. We got there plenty early, maybe a bit too early. After I dropped off all my bags at check-in, there were still 3 hours before my flight. We sat together for a long time, and I filled out my Cambodian digital entry form (which ended up making my arrival in Phnom Penh (PP) so easy). After a while, we walked to security together. Standing right at the entrance to the line, we hugged each other and cried for a long time. Once we said goodbye, he watched as I weaved through the security line. I kept smiling and waving, until I lost sight of him. Tears in my eyes, I took a deep breath and set my sights on what was ahead of me: a grand adventure.
The first leg of the journey was easy. On my flight, the middle seat was empty, so I had plenty of room to spread out. Toward the end of the flight, a flight attendant came to my seat to tell me I wouldn’t make my connecting flight. I asked question after question, but all she could tell me was to “go to the transfer desk at the airport.” I swallowed my panic and tried to relax for the rest of the flight. As we began our descent, I watched the clock. While I tried to remain realistic, my optimism remained intact. I was determined to try my best to make the flight. As soon as the plane landed, I grabbed my carry-on from the overhead and ran to the front of the plane. The door opened to reveal a flight attendant holding a card with my name on it. I gave him my suitcase, and we both started sprinting. We bolted through security (the agents probably noticed my adrenaline and impatience as they leisurely looked through my bags) and ran all the way to the other side of the airport. Finally, we made it to the gate. The flight crew had held the plane for me, and there was still a little while until I had to board. I caught my breath, thanked the flight attendant profusely, and, filled with relief, waited. I used the Incheon wifi to check my phone, which was flooded with Instagram notifications. Ben had made the sweetest post honoring me and the start of my Fulbright. I miss my best friend so much. My heart was full of love and gratitude as I boarded the plane to PP.
After another movie and my second bibimbap meal that day (thank you Korean Air!), we began our descent to PP. I looked out the window to see the twinkling city come into focus. Soon, I would be home.
Phnom Penh Day 1
It had been around ten years since the last time I was in Phnom Penh, a city of lofty sky bars, roaring traffic, and gorgeous sunsets. I arrived late at night and slept wonderfully in my hotel room. The next day, I went to a large, air conditioned shopping mall for breakfast before I left for the embassy.
Of course, the Visa-extension process did not go as expected. I thought it would be easy to go into the Embassy, since I’m an American citizen here on a government program. I imagined walking right up to the gates, showing them my passport, and waltzing inside their air conditioned office. I guess that goes to show my sense of American entitlement. I told the guard that I was in Cambodia on a Fulbright and that I needed to extend my Visa. I asked if he could get a hold of Socheat, my contact at the embassy, for me. He looked very confused and gave me a list of names and emails I could contact for a visa extension. I decided to go to the other entrance to see if I could get a hold of Socheat there. When I told them my story, they sent me back to the first entrance. That’s bureaucracy for you! So I sent an email to Socheat and one of the emails on the list, then went on my way.
Just across from the embassy is Wat Phnom, a beautiful Pagoda complex surrounded by a large park. I paid the $1 fee and explored the compound for what must have been hours. I ascended the hill to the stunning pagoda, removed my shoes, and entered. I quickly became aware of the direction of my feet, remembering that it was culturally insensitive to point them directly towards statues of deities. I looked around and admired the wall paintings of scenes from the Hindu tradition. Then, I knelt in front of the statue of Buddha, mindful of my feet but uncertain of their proper orientation. After a moment of contemplation, I brought my hands together and bowed my head. Although I’m an atheist, something called me to ask Buddha for health and safety while in Cambodia. I put my skepticism aside and prayed silently and genuinely. As I left the temple, a huge butterfly appeared right in front of me. I was stunned by its beautiful wings, black and jagged with big yellow circles like gleaming eyes. Maybe it was a sign that I would be watched over and protected. I watched it flutter away and smiled. Then, as I turned to walk past the temple, I looked up at the point of the pagoda and noticed hundreds of dragonflies zipping about. I’ve been fascinated by butterflies and dragonflies lately, so seeing them here in such abundance filled me with joy. I was awestruck by the universality of life’s simple pleasures. Seeing beauty and wonder in the little things can make anywhere feel like home.
My mind now clear and optimistic, I had the idea to call Socheat (maybe Buddha heard me after all). I was transferred to a receptionist who told me Socheat was out to lunch. He said I should call back in 30 minutes. I explored Wat Phnom further, stepping into the artisan market and cafe, then called back. Socheat was still out of the office. I continued calling every thirty minutes for two hours, until I finally reached him. By then, I had wandered back to the air conditioned shopping mall and then to the river. I rushed back to the embassy on foot, to finally meet Socheat. Coincidentally, he had been out to lunch with another Fulbright student. I felt a strange mix of relief and fear as I handed him my passport.
I went back to the hotel and took a dip in the rooftop pool to cool down. I then decided to find a sky bar for dinner. I went to Juniper Gin Bar, a gorgeous establishment with pizza and $3 happy hour cocktails. After dinner, I walked along the Ton Le Sap, delighted by the cool evening breezes.
Phnom Penh Day Two
I spent my second day in Phnom Penh with my Khmer teacher, Dany. I studied my vocabulary all morning to prepare for our lesson. We went to the central market, so I could try some mhob khmer (khmer food). I had a delicious beef sandwich and a cold dessert of custard with coconut milk. I shopped around for a skirt, but I couldn’t find one in my size (the challenge of being an American!). The shopping trip was still a complete success, because I got to practice so much Khmer. Dany accompanied me home, so we could practice talking about money together. Math mixed with Khmer proved to be an extra challenge! After she left, I rested alone for a bit and then went out to dinner with her and her boyfriend. He is from the UK, and took us out to a high quality French restaurant. Good food and good conversation.
Phnom Penh Day Three
On my third and final day in Phnom Penh, I got up early, rushed out the door, and walked to the National Museum. There were countless relics from around Cambodia, many of which had recently been returned to the country from abroad. I learned more about traditional Khmer dance and religious traditions, but many of the pieces were without context. I thought back to a course I took on museum education and wondered what steps could be taken to improve educational outcomes at the museum.
I ate lunch at the museum, then went directly to meet Alyssa, a former Fulbrighter, at her organization, ReMade Cambodia. ReMade supports sustainable fashion by providing a workspace and platform to Khmer fashion designers who make clothes using garments collected from the river. Their workshop doubles as a café and clothing store, with second-hand clothes and new designs. She casually invited me to hang out with her and another Fulbrighter for the rest of the day, and I enthusiastically agreed.
Alyssa lives a little ways outside of the city, across the river, and she offered to take me there on her motorbike (moto). I donned a helmet, got on the back of her moto, and away we went. She was surprised this wasn’t my first moto ride. At one point, we went through a checkpoint where we had to pay. I asked her if we had to pay to cross the bridge, and she informed me that we’d be taking a ferry. Another exciting surprise. I bought some snacks and water, and we headed up to the top deck. The views were stunning. After a quick 10 minute ride, we had crossed the Mekong.
We arrived at her place just after the other Fulbrighter, Olivia. She had extended her Fulbright ETA award and was moving from Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh for the year, so she was storing her belongings at Alyssa’s for the time being. We spent time talking and had a snack before we headed back to the city. A gorgeous ferry ride at sunset.
The evening ended up being so much fun! First we went to a Kun Khmer fight. Alyssa is part of the gym, and they had become her Cambodian second family. I had no idea what the scale of the fight would be, and it completely exceeded my expectations. The fight was held in a huge, air conditioned room, additionally cooled by a menthol-scented mist that wafted through the arena. There were multiple video cameras, broadcasting the fights on live tv. Each match is accompanied by a live band of traditional khmer musicians, pounding drums that increase the suspense and intensity of the fighting. Between fights, loud electronic music blasted from subwoofer speakers. I could feel the vibrations in my throat. Alyssa, Olivia, and I had VIP seats with the owner of the gym, Alyssa’s coach. As a lover of stage combat and metal moshing, I felt comfortable and excited amongst the violence. When it was Alyssa’s friend’s time to fight, we all got up and cheered.
Source: https://m.phnompenhpost.com/sport/eight-fighter-kun-khmer-event-set-to-test-theara
After the fight, we had a wonderful Khmer dinner, filled with lively conversation. What a grand welcome to Cambodia!
Battambang Travel
After a late night in Phnom Penh, I woke up early for my drive to Battambang (BTB). Venerable Dr. Vy Sovechea, the Buddhist monk who works with CVF and oversees the dorm building, had agreed to travel to PP and drive me to my new home. After packing up and getting ready, I went downstairs to meet him. I saw the truck pull up with Venerable Sovechea in the front, and then I noticed someone in the back of the car. It was Chentana, one of my best scholarship student friends. I was so excited to see her that I screamed a bit. Later, she told me I screamed so loud, people were staring at us. We loaded up the car and checked out of the hotel. I had a restful drive to Battambang (BTB).
Then came another surprise: as I rounded the corner there was Danit and other scholarship girls with a cake and a bouquet! It was so sweet! They really went out of their way to make me feel welcome.
When I first got in, I worked on setting up my room for a couple hours. I put everything away in the huge wardrobe. Once I was done, I invited the scholarship students into my room. We talked, and I gave them some American candies to try, which they enjoyed. Next thing I knew, there was a knock at the door. A scholarship student handed me a purse and said she got it for me! What a kind gesture. Then, there was another knock. Someone had bought me my favorite street food snack – seasoned french fries using Khmer potatoes. When she came in, I screamed a little, bowed, and said “knhom srolanh neak,” meaning I love you. Everyone laughed at the joke. The snack was so good, but I had to hold myself back — dinner was just around the corner.
And guess what they made me for dinner? My favorite mhob khmer (Khmer food), beef lok lak! There was also a delicious fish stew. After that, we hung out some more, and ate the cake. Someone asked me to sing jazz, and I did! Later on, many of us sat and talked. They had so many questions for me! I felt very heard, appreciated, and very much at home.
